Often times it is not necessary to haul a boat just to replace an anode.

This is a quick and simple task. Just remember to have your favorite screw driver tied to a lanyard!

PS. greasing the screws on key-side helps to stop them from disappearing below.

This is probably the worst job in the world.

By the time you are finished your wet-suit is filled with all sorts of creepy crawlies that are wriggling in every orifice. 

I find working with a snuba set-up is the easiest. 

Tanks get in the way most of the time and you always land up with a rash from the tank straps.

This pic is a really bad one because in order to do this one really need a harness to push against. 

Most pneumatic sanders will work happily under water. 

I have not often been asked to sand a hull but here you can see it can be done .

This can be a pleasure.

A nice day and  and beer afterwards.

The Florida keys are full of lazy people who don't like to get wet. Why they own boats I will never know.

Anyway this is the sort of fun splash and scrub that pays the bills so please if you need this service give me a call I am happy to do your bottom.

Whenever I pulled a boat out on my dry dock in Seattle I would take a dip over the side to check for anomalies. 

This was really to measure the keel for the block and plank placements before we submerged the dock and lifted the boats.

General surveying  can't really be done under water unless you are looking for something specific. It is better to haul out and check when the boat is out of the water.

Now these need constant work. 

I prefer to paint them with an epoxy anti fowling  but there is a debate on as to whether to paint your props or not ...

I paint mine and have never had this problem.

Being the size they are and with the cost of replacement I always coat them three times before I put the boat back into the water. 

Carefully scraping and sanding the props can take up to an hour each.  Use snuba gear as it is simpler than banging around with tanks.

This is pretty simple if you have a prop puller.

It is like a wheel puller but larger. You will need one of these tools to get the prop off the shaft.

When the nut is screwed and fastened it squeezes the prop, normally phosphor bronze, onto a stainless shaft with the key forming the lock.

After a few years and some rotations the prop tends to be hard to slide off. So get the right size prop puller before getting into the water.

Hmm and us a lanyard tied to the boat!

This is tricky and if it wasn't every one would be doing it.

I am not certified for this work but I have spent many hours on various such jobs when necessary.

 My training started in Cape Town Harbor in 1990. In 1996 I dove with the crew with  Jacques Cousteau

Any size any type of boat.... It is easier under water than it is on land.

 That is once you have taken the prop off.

You need to remove the prop in most cases as the rudder will be in you way.

Replacing rudders and "P" joints are all pretty much the same. 

Lots of grease on rags  that are stuffed into the holes securely  until they can be replaced.